Dining / Reportage
Garibaldi: Brazilian sparkling wine on its own terms
Two gold medals put a fruit-led Brazilian approach before a French jury.
Reportage / São Paulo
Bakery, restaurant and teaching kitchen met in a Pinheiros project built around the chef's confectionery practice.
FROM THE WAYFARER BRAZIL ARCHIVE / English adaptation. Date shown is the original publication date.

At Levena, pastry was not confined to the last course. Diego Lozano’s Pinheiros project placed it near the beginning of the room and allowed the rest of the day to develop around it.
WAYFARER’s October 2023 account described a long display counter filled with the chef’s creations. A grumixama-shaped light at the entrance referred to a fruit native to the Atlantic Forest, giving the setting a Brazilian point of departure.
The project combined a bakery, pastry shop, restaurant and culinary school. Breakfast, lunch, coffee and dinner could occupy the same place at different times, making it more than a destination for a single elaborate dessert.
The archive described vegan preparations within the pastry selection, although the percentage quoted then is not treated as a current inventory.
Lozano’s route included technical training at SENAI, work with chocolate maker Harald and participation in the Brazilian selection for the World Chocolate Masters. He later worked at D.O.M. before opening his own pastry school in 2012.
The report’s sweeping claims about international reach and rankings are not needed to explain the project. The school and the counter make the relationship more tangible: the techniques used to produce a dessert can also become the subject of a lesson. Levena joined those two forms of work inside a neighbourhood restaurant.
Adapted from the WAYFARER Brazil archive, first published 2023-10-19. English adaptation: 6 October 2026. This is an archival account, not a report of a new visit. Exhibitions, collections and menu details are described in their original context, not as current availability.
CONTINUE READING
Dining / Reportage
Two gold medals put a fruit-led Brazilian approach before a French jury.
Dining / Reportage
The Rosewood restaurant’s archive account placed producers and the kitchen ahead of the size of the cellar.
Dining / Reportage
The restaurant’s 2026 cold-season menu connected classical preparations with a more local pantry.