Dining / Reportage
Garibaldi: Brazilian sparkling wine on its own terms
Two gold medals put a fruit-led Brazilian approach before a French jury.
Reportage / São Paulo
The restaurant's 2024 move to Bela Cintra joined an industrial material palette with dishes carrying its established Brazilian identity.
FROM THE WAYFARER BRAZIL ARCHIVE / English adaptation. Date shown is the original publication date.

A restaurant’s move asks which parts of its identity are portable. For Sal Gastronomia, the answer included an open kitchen, a recognisable set of materials and dishes that did not need the old address to retain their character.
WAYFARER’s April 2024 account described the Fogaça siblings’ new setting on Rua Bela Cintra in São Paulo’s Jardins. It contrasted that scale with the restaurant’s early sixteen-seat room at Galeria Vermelho.
The report placed a bar and dining area on one level, with the principal room, open kitchen, wine storage and terrace on another. Corten steel, timber and leather supplied the industrial register, while skulls and other objects reflected Henrique Fogaça’s personal vocabulary.
An onyx bar counter introduced a different texture. The entrance’s concave wall was described as a reference to Richard Serra; it was not presented as an artwork by him.
The menu in the archive included scallops with nut cream and peach palm, burrata with puff pastry and cured ham, duck breast with port wine, and octopus with chimichurri. Cumaru pudding and a passion-fruit brigadeiro appeared among the desserts.
Resident chef Douglas Chavez supplied continuity within the kitchen. These preparations record the 2024 account rather than an updated menu. The move’s larger subject is how a restaurant grows: the room can expand while the vocabulary of the food remains legible.
Adapted from the WAYFARER Brazil archive, first published 2024-04-18. English adaptation: 6 October 2026. This is an archival account, not a report of a new visit. Exhibitions, collections and menu details are described in their original context, not as current availability.
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