Trattorita EVVAI: an Italian kitchen at a different scale

Trattorita EVVAI gave Luiz Filipe Souza another format in which to work. The São Paulo project moved towards a casual meal and dishes designed for sharing, without treating simplicity as the absence of technique.

WAYFARER’s April 2024 report placed the restaurant near Rua dos Pinheiros, alongside Bar Evv.ita. The two spaces offered different entrances into an Italian repertoire: a dining room for pasta and fire-cooked dishes, and a bar visible from the street.

Regional forms on the plate

The archive described handmade pasta, grilled preparations and reworked classics. Seafood fregola and malloreddus with sausage ragù, saffron and pecorino brought Sardinian forms into the sequence.

At the bar, naturally fermented pizzas returned to Souza’s repertoire. A wood-fired oven made from volcanic clay supplied the practical centre of that part of the project.

Mariana Debize’s interiors used pale blue walls and projected images associated with Tuscany. The setting gave the two dining formats a common visual language, although the food rather than the photographic backdrop remained the more substantial subject.

The report also mentioned a proposed smaller format at Tamboré. This adaptation does not assert that it subsequently opened or reproduce service times.

The original project is worth revisiting for the change in scale: the chef’s work could leave the extended tasting-menu format and enter the rhythm of pasta, pizza and a shared evening.

---

Adapted from the WAYFARER Brazil archive, first published 2024-04-18. English adaptation: 6 October 2026. This is an archival account, not a report of a new visit. Exhibitions, collections and menu details are described in their original context, not as current availability.