Dining / Reportage
Hotel bars: four rooms that give an evening a subject
From Bemelmans in New York to Library by the Sea in Grand Cayman, a considered hotel bar offers more than a setting for a drink.
Reportage / Rio de Janeiro
Claude Troisgros' Leblon restaurant places a family reference inside a deliberately concise kitchen.

A limit can make a kitchen’s decisions more visible. Madame Olympe’s July 2026 presentation set a maximum of five ingredients per dish, giving Claude Troisgros’ Leblon restaurant a clear principle of composition.
The name remembers his mother Olympia and the earlier Olympe restaurant in Rio. The new room occupies a more intimate setting, with Jéssica Trindade leading the daily kitchen.
The opening menu connected preparations such as otoro with watermelon and chia roe, duck with palm heart, and sorrel sorbet with mandaçaia honey and miso caramel. French technique and Brazilian ingredients meet within a small number of elements.
The restraint is therefore not a rejection of complexity. It shifts complexity into the work behind the plate: choosing which ingredients can carry the dish, how they are treated and where another addition would stop being useful.
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Dining / Reportage
From Bemelmans in New York to Library by the Sea in Grand Cayman, a considered hotel bar offers more than a setting for a drink.
Dining / Reportage
The tribute to Le Grollet pairs a limited cognac with a cooling cabinet, shifting attention from the age of a blend to the sequence of its service.
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